Wednesday, May 23, 2012

Day Trip: Loire Valley

Lion at the zoo

We went on a day trip last week to the Loire valley, famous for its châteaus. Of course the kid in me wanted to go to the zoo first - it had géant pandas(!) - but I really enjoyed châteauing as well. The zoo was one of the best I have ever been to, so many animals to see and the enclosures for the animals were quite open, large and well maintained. Highlights of course included the pandas - even if they spent the entire time sleeping, and watching the baby animals, especially the gorillas.

Château de Chenonceau was also breathtaking. The castle, full of beautiful flower arrangements and period decorations, was stunning, and the grounds, including the gardens and maze were exquisite. This was the perfect day trip - incredibly fun, and definitely left me wanting to return!

Panda at the zoo

Koalas at the zoo

Rhinoceros at the zoo

Château de Chenonceau

The kitchen at Château de Chenonceau

Flowers at Château de Chenonceau

Exploring the labyrinth at Château de Chenonceau

Labyrinth at Château de Chenonceau

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Sunday, May 20, 2012

Another Sunday in Paris: Pancakes, Strawberries and a Run in the Park

Fluffy Pancakes

I know that I have already posted about strawberries and pancakes, but I saw this recipe in The Globe and Mail last weekend and I was dying to try it  - and the strawberries continue to reel me in at the fruit market. These made the fluffiest pancakes I have ever had, definitely worth the extra time it takes to separate and whip the egg white. These may become my new favourite pancakes, replacing my old standard. They did have a super butter-y taste though, which was nice but maybe competed a little with the maple syrup and strawberries; next time I may try them with vegetable oil instead of the melted butter. Also, as we couldn't find any buttermilk here, we made them with regular milk, but I find French milk to be quite sour, so it was probably pretty close in the end.

Nothing as fun as a trip to the races this afternoon though - instead I did the racing (or plodding, is more like it) around the park. I always wish I could take my camera with me on my runs in Paris, as I find them very entertaining. Not only do I get to see the sights of Paris as I jog along, but my fellow Parisian runners are a sight to see as well. Almost all Parisians run very, very slowly (which I like, as I fit in well) and their running costumes are often quite interesting. The few other women are often decked out in scarves, and the will wear anything from a fisherman sweater with an Andy Capp hat, to cut-off (booty) acid wash jean shorts, to pretty much everything in between. It's also fun just to watch Parisians going about their day - impeccably dressed young children playing on scooters or kicking around soccer balls, impeccably dressed adults super-reclining, smoking and looking at fenced-off grass, old men arguing over a game of boules, and couples strolling slowly hand-in-hand (as well as a fair many other sights that aren't sometimes so sweet, but I'll leave those for another day).
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Thursday, May 17, 2012

Adventures in Flexitarianism

Turkey Meatballs

I have been a vegetarian for the better part of 12 years, but over the last little while I have wanted to become a flexitarian (you know, follow a mostly vegetarian diet, but eat meat occasionally). Adding a little meat back into my diet will make me a less picky eater, open up so many more food possibilities, and make it easier for me to eat more protein (I'll be the first to admit that I am sometimes a lazy vegetarian). To start my adventures in eating meat again, I thought I would try an old classic from my childhood - spaghetti and meatballs. Red meat is still a bridge too far for me though, so I decided to make turkey meatballs. As Gwyneth Paltrow's goop is a guilty pleasure of mine, I followed this recipe. Cooking over here can be a bit of adventure - I couldn't find any ground turkey so had to finely mince some turkey breast, and I modified the spices a bit to suit what we had in the house, but this recipe was a great first foray into the world of meat. My carnivorous husband thought it was delicious too.

Turkey Meatballs (Courtesy of Gwynnie's friend Julia)

SERVES: 4 (makes about 2 dozen small meatballs)
TIME: an hour, plus at least 20 minutes of simmering

Ingredients
2 tablespoons olive oil plus 2 additional tablespoons
1 large yellow onion, very finely diced
3 cloves garlic, peeled and minced
coarse sea salt
freshly ground pepper
1 28 oz. can whole tomatoes, crushed by hand
1/2 cup breadcrumbs
zest of 1/2 lemon
1/4 cup finely chopped flat-leaf parsley
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh thyme
1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh rosemary (I substituted herb de Provence for these two ingredients)
1 pound ground turkey (preferably dark meat)
1 egg
1 pound spaghetti, cooked just before serving
1/4 cup basil leaves, roughly torn

Method
Heat two tablespoons of olive oil in a large Dutch oven (or saucepan) over medium heat. Add the onion and cook for about eight minutes, sweating it without giving it too much color. When it’s soft, add the garlic and fennel seeds and season generously with salt and pepper (about a teaspoon of salt and a half teaspoon of pepper should do). Sauté for an additional three or four minutes. Remove and reserve half of this onion mixture in a large mixing bowl. Add the tomatoes and their juice to the remaining mixture in the pot, turn the heat to low and simmer while you make the meatballs. Be sure to put a little water in the tomato can, swish it around and add it to the pot.

To make the meatballs, combine the breadcrumbs, lemon zest, parsley, thyme and rosemary with the reserved onion mixture. Add the turkey and egg and mush it all with your hands (the best tool for this job) just until everything is well-combined, don't over mix. Form the mixture into 1-1/2" balls with your hands (of course you can make them whatever size you like). Heat the last two tablespoons of olive oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Making sure not to overcrowd the pan, brown the meatballs (should take about five minutes). Put the browned meatballs into the simmering tomato sauce and let them cook, shaking the pot occasionally to roll the meatballs around, for at least 20 minutes and up to an hour and a half. Taste the sauce and season with salt and pepper. Serve with spaghetti and the torn basil.

Making turkey meatballs

Of course, no meal is complete without dessert. These brownies topped off with fleur de sel caramel ice cream, another new favourite discovered in Normandy.

Brownies and ice cream



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Thursday, May 10, 2012

Cherry Tomato Pasta

Cherry Tomato Pasta

I, like other Parisians (its so fun to call myself that - even if its only for a few months!!) love cherry tomatoes. One of my favourite things to make from them is a simple cherry tomato pasta. I first fell in love with this dish in Positano, Italy, when it was made with sautéed tomatoes and arugula, but lately I have been into roasted cherry tomatoes, probably because of this soup. Roasted tomatoes are so flavourful, and so easy. Roast the tomatoes in the oven at about 350 F, with some basil, olive oil, salt and pepper (or any flavour you like) for 20 or so minutes and then toss with pasta. Add a bit of parmesan cheese to the top and you're done. So simple but so yummy!

Cherry tomatoes

Cooking cherry tomato pasta

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Monday, May 07, 2012

Normandy and Brittany

Mont Saint-Michel

We had an amazing time on our mini-break to Normandy and Brittany this past weekend. Though the weather continued to be on the cold side - in fact it was a two-sweater kind of trip (I had to layer both sweaters I brought under my trench coat), and I really regretted leaving my toque and mitts back in Paris, we still had a wonderful time. Both Normandy and Brittany have some of the most breath-taking scenery I have ever seen. Highlights of the trip included Mont Saint-Michel, the Canadian War Museum at Juno Beach, the Bayeux tapestry and the town of Dinan in Brittany.

Now onto what I really want to talk about - the food! I know this is a bit sacrilegious to say, but French food in Paris leaves me a bit cold. As a wannabe flexitarian, current pesco-vegetarian, I often struggle with finding good food in Paris - often all there is on the menu for me is a piece of baked salmon. And as I have mastered the art of baking salmon at home, I don't want to have it when I go out for dinner. Normandy and Brittany were a different story all together though - the fish and seafood options were endless and absolutely delicious! I had the best plate of mussels in my life at Le Noroit in Trouville and equally good meals of scallops and mussels in Dinan, Bayeux and Dieppe. Not to mention the drinks and desserts - these areas are famous for their apple desserts and ciders and let me tell you they were outstanding. My husband also probably had some of the best ice cream I have ever tasted in Dinan and I absolutely fell in love with a Kir Breton (apple cider and creme de cassis) - I think we will have to introduce cocktail hour at our house!

Dinan, Brittany
Bayeux Tapestry
Rouen, Normandy
Honfleur, Normandy
Dieppe, Normandy

Breakfast of apple-rhubarb and strawberry tarts in Rouen.

Enjoying some of the wares from our trip - apple cider and rhubarb nectar.

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Thursday, May 03, 2012

Paris Museums

Winged Victory of Samothrace

The weather here last week was particularly terrible. To keep ourselves entertained (and indoors) we bought a four day Paris Museum Pass and hit up the museums like crazy. I don't know why more people don't buy the pass, as not only is it a great value, but it lets you skip the lines (and the line up at the Louvre even first thing in the morning in April is insane!).

We got tons of use out of our passes, returning to some of our favourite museums, as well as trying out some new places we had never been - we made it to the Louvre (twice), Musée d'Orsay, the Conciergerie, all the museums at Invalides, Centre Pompidou, Arts et Métiers, Mode et Textile, the Orangerie, the aquarium, and out to Versailles to see the palace, gardens and Petit Trianon. There is so much history to learn about and great art to see in this city. I enjoyed seeing some of my favourite paintings and sculptures, like the Winged Victory of Samothrace - which is probably my favourite piece of art in this world - and Monet's Water Lilies (why he didn't paint in the miniature ducks, I'll never know...), but I also love that every time I go to these great museums I see something new. We explored the Ancient Egyptian wing at the Louvre where we discovered some really interesting pieces, I learned a lot about France during wartime at Invalides, enjoyed the simple elegance of the Petit Trianon, and was really fascinated by the Louis Vuitton and Marc Jacobs exhibit at the Espaces Mode et Textile.

The stunning Orsay
The gates of Versailles
The hall of mirrors
Me at Versailles
My hubby's favourite typewriter at Centre Pompidou
Another view of my favourite piece
Some interesting art in the Egyptian wing at the Louvre
Nemo
The Conciergerie

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